Lower 10 gallon Betta tank

fishhead0103666

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I have a double titan eze stand for a 55 gallon and it is the flimsiest stand I've ever had. I honestly would have preferred a store bought particle stand to this. If only the top tank is filled I honestly do not feel safe with it and would not let anybody or pets around it for fear of collapsing. If only the bottom is filled then it is not so bad. If both are filled it's slightly better but I still do not trust the stand, it moves far too much for my liking.
Does your double 10 gallon have the same problem?
 
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CarpCharacin

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My 10 gallon stand is pretty sturdy, and I also use them on my 40 gallon tanks without any issues, but I have one for my 75 gallon tank, and it was super flimsy, and it ended up causing the bottom panel of the tank to leak, since I don't think it was level. I think the Titan Eze stands are good up to the 65 gallon size, which I use for my 40 gallon tanks, but after that, they are too flimsy.
 

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When I have the need for a double 40 gallon breeder stand I'll consider using their double stands and give them a last chance but for now I don't trust them for my needs.
 
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CarpCharacin

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You could also try shimming the stand with something where it fits together, maybe wrapping it in tape to create a stronger fit, that seems to be where most of the flimsiness is.
 

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Personally I believe that if you're gonna sell something then it needs to be a finished product, not a product that needs to be adjusted by the buyer to even work properly and safely. I'm going to replace the stand anyway with something else so I am not worrying about it.
 

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True true, it's easier to sand out the edges of a square to get a round wheel than to..... I'm not sure how to finish the comparison but you get where I'm going with not trying to re-invent the wheel.
 

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I actually know of a cheap strong stand that literally anyone can get set up. It's not pretty itself but it does the job and you can make it look better easily. It's simple some cinder blocks and some plywood.
 

fishhead0103666

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"Bit more sturdy", cinder blocks are very sturdy. I could run full speed into my 75 gallon that only has 12 cinder blocks (2 blocks across and 3 high on each side of the tank) and that stand wouldn't budge. If you completely fill the space below the tank with the blocks then I guarantee you that the only thing that could make the stand move would be an earthquake or a car crashing into it.
 

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Actually, maybe that would work, as long as it's level. When I went to pick up the tank, it was on cinder blocks, but it was only resting on small pieces of wood in the corners, but it could work with a full sheet of plywood, but I'm still not sure how to make the holes for the overflows accessible, since it is a drilled tank.
 

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I'm not very familiar with overflows but I have a general idea that they are holes drilled into the tank on the side or on occasion on the bottom of the tank I believe. Am I correct?
 

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Yeah, but there are also overflow boxes inside of the tank and stuff, but that's irrelevant here, because I'm just concerned about how to access the holes, there are 4 in total, two in each of the back corners of the tank.
 

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And you think that the cinder blocks or the plywood would hinder access to it?
 

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Yeah, if I have cinder blocks in each corner. With a wood-framed stand, I could build the supports around the overflow and maybe extend the stand out to the side a bit more in order to do so,

Actually wait......
I just thought of a possible solution while writing this post. Using a larger piece of plywood and putting the supports out a bit more, but I'd still worry about the corners not being fully supported. I can drill plywood, but not cinder blocks.
 

fishhead0103666

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While I may not know what exactly is going through your head I do know that cinder blocks have 2 quite large holes, could you perhaps make use of said holes?
 

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Perhaps you could have the cinder blocks in the middle and some wooden supports on the outside. Like make a rectangle and have it fit very snugly under the plywood so it would add support across the edges. Would something like that work you think?
 

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Possibly, but I only want to use cinder blocks if they are easier to use than just building a fully wood framed stand. I need to figure out how to support the two back corners while still keeping the holes open, but they were open when I picked up the tank and it was sitting on couch cinder blocks, however they weren't using a full sheet of plywood. I also still need to replace the cracked plastic top braces with glass ones.
 

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Is it possible to see a picture of this tank so I can see what you're talking about?
 

fishhead0103666

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Ok man, also I don't think I'll be able to get a picture of my tank today. Kinda wasted the day and my phone is going slow so it would take a while to get the picture uploaded on my phone :/.
 

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Yeah, I don't know enough about stuff like that in general yet to really give any advice. All I know is that I'd try to attach an acrylic panel over that hole and just use canisters but that's because I like to stick to the things I know.
 

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Silicone doesn't stick to acrylic like it does to glass. Also, I'm planning on using canisters, but I'd like to plumb them into the overflow. I think I'll most likely end up making the stand out of wood like I was originally planning, since I'm not seeing a way to make the cinder block supports work with the overflow plumbing, and I already have the supplies needed to build the stand out of wood.
 

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I actually have plans to get into sumps and such but not now as I am destined to move in a few years so I'd rather keep my fish situations simple and make it easier on my future self.
 
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